places Categories: Attractions and Mountainsplaces Tags: Mountain peaks in Pakistan
Baintha Brakk is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb. It is steep and craggy and 7,285 metres (23,901 ft) high.
Officially it lies in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range, North Pakistan, but it is a disputed border with India claiming it to be an integral part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir.
It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than most other Karakoram peaks and is on the northeastern side of Biafo Glacier (west of K2). It is sinister and foreboding and its sheer east wall looks and acts like a medieval fortress. It is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, steepness. For example, its South Face rises over 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) above the Uzun Brakk Glacier in only 2 kilometres (1 mile) of horizontal distance!
It is because of this steepness and rockiness that the mountain was nicknamed ‘The Ogre’ and became so attactive for extremely highly qualified mountaineers.
There were two unsuccessful attempts on the peak in 1971 and 1976, but it was finally sucessfully summitted in 1977 by two Britons, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. On 13th July, 1977, Scott and Bonington set off from a snowhole at 7,000m in a lightweight bid to make the summit. They climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. Tricky climbing led up to the final tower with a nearly vertical 100m granite face. The long second pitch involved very demanding free- and aid-climbing (VI and A2) and included a giant pendulum movement at half-height to gain a second crack system. Above that, several more hard, challenging pitches led to the summit, which the pair reached just before dusk.
This was probably the hardest technical climb ever achieved above 7,000m at that time.
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FeaturedHispar Pass (Urdu: درہ ہسپر, also Hispar La) (el. 5,128 m/16,824 ft) is a high-altitude, non-technical mountain pass in the Karakoram Range in Pakistan. At the pass, the Biafo Glacier (63 km long) and Hispar Glacier (4 9 km long) meet at Hispar Pass to form the world’s longest glacial traverse outside of the polar regions, 100 kilometers in length. Read more...
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Uli Biaho is a mountain near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier in the Gilgit–Baltistan area of Pakistan. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6,109 metres or 20,043 feet); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed. Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style Read more...
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FeaturedThe Koser Gunge is a mountain in the Masherbrum Mountains , a chain of Karakorum . The Koser Gunge is located east of the Shigar River Valley in the far west of the Masherbrum Mountains . The mountain is eponymous for the surrounding mountain group, the so-called Koser-Gunge group . The first ascent took place in 1899 by the American Fanny Bullock Workman . The height is given in the literature as 6401 m . According to the topographic map Read more...
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FeaturedThe Mango Gusor is a 6288 m high mountain in the Masherbrum Mountains , a chain of Karakorum . Mango Gusor is located south of the Braldu River Valley in the western part of the Masherbrum Mountains. The mountain lies 12.5 km south of the confluence of the Biafo Glacier Valley in the river valley of the Braldu. The Masherbrum is 35 km further east. The mountain is the highest peak and eponymous for the surrounding mountain range, Read more...
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Uli Biaho is a mountain near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier in the Gilgit–Baltistan area of Pakistan. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6,109 metres or 20,043 feet); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed. Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley et al. All four US climbers Read more...
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